August September & October Wiring and more Wiring

 October 23 2021, Not much more in the way of photos as the wiring is a huge job.  Thankfully I have made loads of schematic diagrams to keep it all in order.  On the sub panel 18 inches ahead of the main panel from left to right are the Dynon Com Radio, screw terminal strip, Dynon Engine Monitor and Dynon Transponder.

I am keeping the panel to the bare minimum and that is thanks to the design of the Dynon equipment.

I made up my own wiring harness for the Intercom, Radio and Transponder units.  This was probably the most complex wiring of it all.

Next two photos are my wingtip wiring all in place with the nav/strobe power box, also the coil of aluminum for fuel tank air vent and overflow.

My wing tip installed and my Nav/Strobe unit tested.

Below is my new next door hangar neighbour Chris's Acro Sport II which he purchased mostly finished and then completed and upgraded to his liking.

Parked behind my hangar at Springbank airport

 August 29 2021.  This is a AN2 aircraft on floats, very rare to see.  The plane was built in Poland and is in Canada under a  Special CofA it appears.  I say that because on the door it is marked EXPERIMENTAL, a little reading and that seems is the only way it can be registered in Canada.  I also read on the internet that Canada doesn't want planes in Canada that would compete against Canada's  homebuilt bush planes.  The floats and attachment hardware all appear to be brand new as they are all pristine.  The floats are made out of  fiberglass and much cost a pretty penny.  There are no water rudders on the floats so that may be an item yet to be installed or i don't know how they would steer it.  What a huge beast this plane is!

Update:  I found out the floats were custom designed by the owner with plans to market them.  They have installed inside the floats a water jet system for steering.

June and July progress

Month of July I got a bit more done between some flying around for fun meeting up with friends at various airports.  I bought a ARTEX 406 ELT for the plane and got it all installed.  The black box is my Dynon ADAHRS unit with networking cable installed.  All of this is located just behind the aft bulkhead of the baggage compartment.  Green tube is the push/pull to the elevator with a intermediate idler arm.  The octagon is my ground plane for my Transponder antenna.

Installed my Flap controller unit which controls my flaps settings for 5 degrees, 14 and full down at 34 degrees.  Now I am beginning the large panel wiring process.

Below is my custom built fiberglass panel which has 4 removable sub panels for instruments.

May progress

May and June not much to report.  The Rudder and Elevator were installed on the airplane and all of the bolts and nuts of the proper sizes installed. 

The tail wheel install was completed with all bolts-nuts and safety wired.  I made up two interface stainless connector cables to tie in the tail wheel steering springs.

ADAHRS Mounting To new Location

 May 14 2021, Update:  I had to move the ADAHRS unit to a new location because testing revealed that there was magnetic interference in the area under the pilot's seat due to the proximity of the installed Auto Pilot servos.  The ADAHRS is now installed aft of the baggage compartment.

December 26 2020, I have a Dynon system and so a Adahrs which must be installed in a magnetic free area.  It must also be oriented in a forward facing configuration and most difficult, must be installed in a level plane fore/aft and laterally in the fuselage when aircraft in level attitude.  I chose to install under the pilots seat for reasons of easy access to reset the level attitude if required.  I had to build up a triangular wood ramp for the Adahrs unit to mount onto as the floor is at a odd angle fore/aft.  This so it would be level when in a level flight attitude.  I then made a aluminum plate to bond to the  wood base  The Adahrs unit will screw onto this using Nylon or Stainless screws and nuts.  I built up the wood base to a level line matching the longerons and then bonded the wood to the floor.  If it is out of level in either direction I can shim the Adahrs unit to make level after seeing what results I get in flight.

Fiberglass Wing Tips and Panel mod

 April 5 2021

I bonded blocks of soft foam onto the ends of the wing tips and then began to shape a simple tip which was pleasing enough to me.  I then covered the pink soft foam in packing tape as a release agent for the fiberglass.   The foam being so soft is great for carving but is delicate and requires care when touching it.  Sanding the surfaces of the upper and lower tip edges gave a good bonding surface.   I laid  up the upper and then the lower surfaces first because I knew that it was going to be difficult forming the compound curves around the tip.  This way I would have a firm surface to work the edges of the outer cloth onto the hardened upper and lower surfaces.  Because the outer three layers now cause a small step in the surface I will have to fill with filler.  The foam blocks were attached with two part auto body putty dabs placed randomly over the outer wing rib.  The tip came off the mold quite easily as the release tape worked excellent and the foam broke away from the auto body putty.  It was a bit of work to get them off though and I had to work tools between the fiberglass and the release tape before pounding on the surface to get the foam to break free.  The foam came out of the inside of the tip after removal.  They can be pried out or the whole foam plug can be dug out later if it is difficult.  One of mine came out very easy and the other needed persuading and a few chunks of foam broke out.

Then I fabricated L shaped flanges which will be the attach points by laying up four layers of glass along the edge of a piece of wood with packing tape on it.  The flanges were trimmed to 3/4" by 3/4" and marked into one inch sections where I installed a nut plate onto each one inch section.  These flanges were bonded onto the outer face of the outer  rib, 7 on top and 7 along the bottom using structural adhesive.

The tips were attached and holes drilled at each nut plate location.  The new tips overlap the aileron and so a piece had to be trimmed off to allow the aileron to move.  Once trimmed I made a rib to fit inside the tip at the aft end to add rigidity and to close off airflow into the open aft end of the wing tip.  This was bonded on with a thin layer of epoxy/flox.

The instrument panel central radio section was modified for a Dynon radio head and the far right section modified to allow the ELT remote switch and 3 pull off fuses for the Flaps, Auto Pilot and Avionics.  Panel sections were then painted in semigloss black.

Engine Silicone Baffling and Auto Pilot Servo mounting

 March 7 2021

A large part of my time this month was spent fabricating the Silicone seal baffle around the top of the engine.  I set up a system of sliding wooden pieces to identify the height from metal baffle to inside surface of the cowling.  Then I was able to determine the width of silicone to use.  The standard 3 inch stuff worked out to fit well.  I decided I wanted all silicone to be removable and so installed on #6 nuts and bolts with a aluminum back plate.  This also allowed me to use pieces with fewer separations as I did not have to account for each separation in the aluminum baffling material below the silicone.

I began building a two brackets for the autopilot servos, the roll unit going under the passenger seat and the pitch servo insider the center console.  A lot of test fitting was required and the aileron and elevator push pull tubes were disconnected and reconnected many times to find the right fit.

The position of the A-pilot units ended up to be too close to the ADAHRS unit with a magnetometer inside it so I made a new bracket for the ADAHRS and positioned it in the rear just behind the baggage compartment.